Programming Meetings, February 25 & 26, 2010

FOTM programming activities are taking shape. The Programming Committee met with Richard on Feb. 26 to go over our ideas for programming, and particularly the opening.

The components of programming will be:

1. Opening reception on April 14

– Looking into the feasibility of having a speaker give a lecture prior to reception.
– Invitations should go out in about 2 weeks. Richard would like to mail paper invites. Sara and Elena are planning to meet with Richard and Creative Services late next week to go over design elements for exhibit panels and invitations.
– Guests will receive paper program which features historical recipe or food related item
– Richard is looking into airline caterers catering the reception using airline food carts. Otherwise Johnson and Wales students will do the catering.

2. Small Bites blog (http://smallbitesrhodeisland.blogspot.com/)
– Erin Boyle designed the blog which will explore the spices and stories of Rhode Island’s local eateries. These aren’t restaurant reviews but musings on food and place. We welcome and encourage contributions from other FOTM members!
– The blog will be going live shortly, and we will post an update when that happens.
– The blog will also be the main web presence from which to promote the exhibition. There is also a Twitter account whose feed will appear on the blog.

3. Kennedy Plaza Event (tentative)
– Researching the possibility of having a booth at Kennedy Plaza in conjunction with a program already taking place there sometime in May.
– This would give the exhibition and its concepts exposure to people who might not necessarily visit the museum.
– Include an interactive activity that makes people think about food and travel.
– Also an opportunity to distribute promotional materials.

Food on the Move: ??

So, we’ve got this title, Food on the Move. Does it stand alone? Does it have an “unsexy” part after the “Sexy:”? Please brainstorm with ideas and suggestions so we can take something to Richard and get the ball rolling on this. Sara and I received a wake up call from Chelsea when she offered us free publicity we were essentially unable to take because the title and opening date aren’t final, so we’d like to lock that up.

public programming meeting – january 29, 2010

Results from discussion at Public Programming Meeting, January 29, 2010

Three main events/projects to plan:

1.    opening reception at Johnson and Wales

2.    cell phone tour of relating sites around Providence

3.    possible third event, to take place at location beyond johnson &  wales

Details/issues discussed:

1. opening reception
contingent partially on how exhibit comes together
hope to serve food related to exhibit subject

2. cell phone tour
self-guided tour focusing on related sites around providence
hope to integrate an oral history component into the tour
bring in food truck interviews/site visits in effort to broaden scope of exhibit–will be especially interesting as a way to discuss the people serving the food, too

3. film festival

benefits:

provides an alternative way to invite community participation beyond the exhibit walls
could allow for the expansion of ideas addressed in exhibit
possibility to use newly restored Xavier auditorium, at downtown J&W campus

drawbacks:
difficulty in procuring films closely related to subject matter, that  will also draw an interested audience
films need to be appropriate for community screenings

cost of screening rights – adds up quickly for multiple films significant time and energy could be spent working on a project that has less impact than hoped for

conclusion:
hoping that we will be able to reach a wider audience, and explore potentially more interesting topics by devoting more attention to planning the cell-phone tour  – given time/participation restraints, might be more useful to focus on dynamic cell phone tour rather than planning film screenings where participation might be limited

History of Automobile-Oriented Food

Prior to WWII, automobile use was primarily recreational. Early automobile travelers were nearly as restricted as they had been with railroad travel due to the limitations imposed by the locations and hours of hotels and hotel restaurants. Between 1910 and 1920, autocamping became a solution that offered flexibility, convenience, and liberation from undesirable hotels to roadtrippers.

Camping equipment specifically designed for autocampers emerged. Tents and cooking supplies were necessary for self-sufficient travelers. A 1926 catalog for the David T. Abercrombie Co. advertisers an Amazon Automobile Tent with space specifically designed for comfortable dining. The catalog lists all necessary supplies for preparing for an automobile camping trip. It suggests a variety of items for cooking including an aluminum cooking outfit with pots and pan, a coffee pot, and serving and eating utensils. As an alternative to aluminum, plates and cups were also available in enamelware. Portable camps stores that ran on gasoline were a must in case campfires were prohibited. Some travelers even opted to bring along camp table and chairs. Camp meals were made from ingredients such as flour, corn meal, beans, bouillon capsules, sugar, butter, salt pork, bacon, dried codfish, sliced dried beer, dried milk, oatmeal, rice, dried vegetable, and dehydrated fruits. For auto daytrips, travelers brought along prepared food from home, keeping it warm or cold in portable insulated pails.

Services catering specifically to the needs of tourists – tourist camps, food stands, tea rooms, and filling stations – began to appear in the 1920s. Tearooms served upper class recreational motorists. They became a destination for those looking for a rural retreat and civilized way to spend their leisure time. The popularity of tearooms along rural highways resulted in their appearance on main streets and in hotels.

In an effort to lure tourists, towns created free municipal campgrounds, offering amenities such as electric lights, hot showers, and central kitchens. By the late 1920s, motels began to appear, offering amenities to travelers tired of carrying their own camping and cooking equipment.

For those who could afford it, hotel dining was an easy choice for travelers in a new place. In addition to hotel dining rooms, travelers also turned to local restaurants for sustenance while on the road. Many forms that pre-date the automobile, like hotel dining rooms, diners, coffee shops, soda fountains, lunch counters and main street cafes, evolved to serve automobile travelers in search of a meal. They added parking areas, when possible, and added meals that could be prepared quickly. Lunch counters had been offering affordable, quick-service meals to railroad travelers for years and they were accustomed to catering to customers on the move.

As more and more people, including those from the middle and lower middle class, gained access to automobiles, demand for road food grew and new food service forms emerged. Like the diner before it, the roadside stand was unpretentious and welcomed all. It took on a form similar to the booths that sold refreshments at fairs and carnivals; it also sold similar food, like hamburgers, hot dogs, ice cream, and soft drinks. The stands were constructed on well-traveled highways and invited motorists to park with ease and order food from a window without ever having to go indoors. Eventually these stands began offering curb service. Pioneered by soda fountains in the 1910s and 1920s, staff would take orders from customers still in their cars and deliver it on trays. These precursors to drive-ins, like the popular A&W root beer stands, were among the first to encourage customers to enjoy food in the comfort of their own automobile.

Local restaurants and food stands were typically individually owned and had wide ranging décor and menus. As an alternative to selecting a place based solely on its physical appearance, many travelers turned to guidebooks, like Duncan Hines Adventures in Good Eating, for recommendations. Hines compiled his guide using personal experience as a salesman who had eaten at hundreds of restaurants around the country.

As automobile ownership increased, so did demand for roadside services – fuel stations, motels, and, of course, restaurants. Automobile-oriented roadside services changed the American built environment and landscape. They were no longer confined to general-purpose storefronts but emerged in new purpose-built building types. Proprietors creatively used the building to entice passers-by to stop. Beginning in the late 1920s and early 1930s, flamboyant signs, names, and paint colors were combined with eye-catching building forms. Buildings took on the shape of everything imaginable, from animals to people to inanimate objects. Popular forms included windmills, milk cans and ice cream cones.

As an alternative to the easily accessible roadside stands, highway cafes were developed. Often attached to gas stations or motels, they began as independently owned and operated establishments specifically catering to automobile travelers. Truck drivers in particular were attracted to these one-stop accommodations. They placed emphasis on signage that could be read while driving by and often had large windows so that would-be customers could peak inside. Later, corporate hotels, restaurants, and gas stations emulated this form, often pairing up with one another across the country.

Coffee shops and family restaurants followed the highway cafes, offering more menu options, soda fountains, and a more formal dining room. The Howard Johnson Restaurant is the most notable example of this form. The ownership of Howard Johnson Restaurants was split between the corporate entity and a local franchisee. The restaurants, and later motor lodges, had an unmistakable design, with orange roofs, turquoise cupolas, and large signs; and relied on loyal customers who knew what to expect from the chain. The menus, interior design, and other elements were standardized nationwide. The chain later grew by securing food service contracts from state turnpike authorities.

Independently owned coffee shops, particularly in southern California, used bold, modern architecture and sign design to attract customers. The style, called “Googie” after a small coffee-shop chain, featured extensive use of glass, cantilevered ceilings, and space-age light fixtures. These buildings, built to accommodate and attract motorists, reflected the changing technology of the time in their design.

Following the success of the roadside stand and coffee shop, the drive-in emerged. The drive-in expanded the curbside service that roadside stands began to offer. Most had canopies under which cars could park and order from an attendant, or later a stationary order box. Carhops, dispatched from a central kitchen, then delivered the food on trays that attached to the vehicle. Most carhops were women who were hired as much for their looks and how they looked in their uniform as their ability to serve food. In addition to offering nourishment to travelers, many quick-service, roadside restaurants also became alternative places for young people. The carhops contributed to the attraction of drive-ins to teenagers; in addition to drive-ins, soda fountains and diners also served a social function as venues outside the home and workplace for people to interact.

Restaurants offering fast service became quite popular with roadtrippers. To accommodate this need for speed, roadside restaurants often had limited menus. In Menu Making for Professionals, published in 1950, grilled cheese sandwiches, grilled ham sandwiches, minute steak, cubed steak sandwiches, lamb chops, frankfurters, and hamburgers are the recommended fare for diners, roadside restaurants, and drive-ins. Fried food in particular was popular because of the speed in which it could be prepared and served.

Speed in food production met speed on the highways when the interstate highway system and service plazas were introduced in the 1950s. States owned the service plazas and leased out space to service providers. Hot Shoppes, a Washington D.C.-area chain, held the contract on the New York State Thruway. On of the most notable service plaza concession companies was the Fred Harvey Company. Fred Harvey had established itself along the Santa Fe railroad line and was contracted to operate within the “oases” on the Illinois Tollway. Service plazas provided the easiest access possible to drivers in need of food and fuel.

To decrease labor costs, which were high at drive-ins in particular, operations were streamlined to the bare essentials, creating a new form: outdoor walk-up restaurants. While similar to the original roadside stands, new walk-up restaurants mechanized the production of food. Modern cooking techniques and technologies were embraced. Maximum speed and efficiency of production could be achieved with electric frying vats and grills, automated ice cream, shake and drink machines, and cup and drink dispensers. A kitchen assembly line allowed for job specialization and the use of unskilled labor. Kitchen workers often performed the same monotonous task over and over again for the entire shift. Walk-up restaurants typically employed part-time, minimum wage employees. Teenagers often filled these positions on the “back-line. Many of the walk-up buildings were prefabricated, this combined with the automation and standardization of food production made these restaurants ideal for the development of franchises and chains. McDonalds quickly became one of the most successful walk-up restaurants, with its iconic golden arches flanking each location. Ice cream chains, like Dairy Queen, Tastee-Freez, and Carvel, also succeeded with the walk-up restaurant model.

As a reaction of the attention-getting yet garish forms of the roadside restaurant, a more restrained style evolved in the 1960s. Attention was paid to making the restaurants more attractive and comfortable to travelers and walk-up restaurants added dining rooms. McDonalds led the way in toning down its building design, trading in the golden arches for a brown understated building with a shingle roof.

For travelers not interested in sitting at a drive-in or getting out of their cars, drive-through windows provided the ultimate easy access to quick-service food. The drive-through window first appeared in the mid-1930s. Speakerphone ordering systems were added in the 1950s, giving the employees more time to prepare the food. Wendy’s and Jack in the Box were the first walk-up chains with dining rooms to also incorporate drive-through windows. In the 1980s the double drive-through was introduced and several chains employed solely this design, like Central Park, Checker’s, Rally’s, and Skooters. Like the walk-up restaurant before it, drive-throughs reduced a restaurant’s overhead costs.

Drive-throughs also changed the menu items offered at quick-service restaurants. Many customers using the drive-through also consumed their meal while driving, so in the 1990s emphasis was placed on food that a driver could eat while operating their vehicle. Car manufacturers reacted to this trend by including cupholders in their designs. People began literally eating while on the move rather than taking the time to stop and grab a bite.

Brand loyalty and familiarity combined with efficiency and standardization made quick-service chains wildly successful. They continue to serve the same easily prepared foods that were popularized by early roadside restaurants.

Reflecting and Reifying Class Stratification

I had another thought about the overall exhibit theme when I was driving today…  Through the lens of food, we could talk about how each of these modes of travel have contributed to or reified class stratification in the United States.

We see it in ship travel, particularly in how the fees charged by commercial lines for steerage passage paid for luxury travel.  According to some of the reading Elena and I have done, steerage was the money maker and made ocean crossings like the Titanic possible.  I didn’t know that – I just figured the rich were paying for their vacations.  In fact, the money collected from steerage customers and the fact that the companies spent very little for their accommodations made trans-oceanic a lucrative business.   From the menus alone, we have a compelling argument for the division of classes.

Are the other groups finding similar accounts in their research?

I just wanted to type this out before I lost my flash of organizing thoughts.  It’s not really a complete proposal, but just something that came to me while I was driving.  I think it’s going to be a little tricky tying all of our narratives together, but 1) exoticization and its contribution to a distinctly American view of the world and 2) class stratification, we have both an external and internal discussion of food ways and the ways they inform our understanding of United States cultural and social history.

Thoughts?  Am I completely off?

From Fast Food: Roadside Restaurants in the Automobile Age

“…when Americans travel, a near total dependence on restaurants prevails. Indeed, one of the highest pleasures of tourist travel is that of eating out. The restaurant looms as an important way to experience new localities, even, paradoxically, when the tourist relies on chain restaurants that are very much alike from one locale to another.”

Ship group – fantasy takes exotic to new levels

Another topic that came up in the research at J&W is the presence of fantastic figures on the covers of the menus, taking the ideas described below to the new level that travel takes us to impossible lands, even fictitious places where fairies and winkies and merfolk roam. This ties in, as Amy will point out shortly, to the way ships, and cruises in particular, have become destinations unto themselves. Here are some examples:

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